Madrid is a local’s city, gnarly and beautiful, one that changes its clothes as soon as you look in the other direction. This hipster city, starting to rival Barcelona, is teeming with dive bars, ad-hoc music venues, vintage and vinyl shops and people who at least look like musicians… My hotel concierge recommended to me that the best use of my Madrid Cercanías (metro pass) would be to go to Guadalajara, 1hr on the C2. The scenic, sleepy town felt like a time capsule and was a welcome respite from the frenetic Spanish capital.
Córdoba platformMatt Charlton
Day 7-8
Madrid to Cordóba on an Ave train (included in the pass)
Most Spanish stations are found on the edges of towns, not necessarily giving you the most attractive first impression. Thankfully, in Córdoba, this was short-lived – it was a 10-minute walk to Eurostars Palace, its modernist iron-clad edifice not popular with the locals, but as a non-invasive contrast to the old town which it sits next to, it felt bold and forward-looking. Cordoba does a much better job at melding a tourist hub with a local feel – on top of main draws such as its mosque, a building which succinctly tells the Andalusian story of religious invasion and repulsion, and Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, I also managed to track down some gems; Jugo Vinos Vivos, a natural wine bar in a charming bohemian environment, or El Rincon De Carmen, a pretty courtyard restaurant hidden behind curtains of ivy.
Hotel Barceló atriumMatt Charlton
Day 9-10
Córdoba to Málaga on an Ave train (included in pass)
Cercanías day trip to Benalmadena (included in the pass)
Like a lairy older sibling, Málaga has much in common with its Andalusian brethren, but the differences shout that bit louder. Once an overlooked airport city, it’s now managed to balance a fly-and-flop influx with an air of sophistication. There are 42 museums, including one dedicated to Picasso – a Malaga native – and a flourishing cultural scene, including a theatre run by another Malaga native, Antonio Banderas, located in the uber-cool Soho district. Make sure to sink a sweet wine aperitivo at Antigua Casa del Guardia. Classy and fun Barcelo Malaga couldn’t be closer to the station if it tried, and Benalmadena, with its picturesque marina and golden beaches – 50 mins on the C1 – retains the feel of a local secret, having survived the overdevelopment of its neighbouring towns.
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