Ask A Local is a new series where we ask clued-up insiders to share their top tips for the place they call home.
“I’ve lived in Kyoto for 13 years,” says Sara Aiko, who moved to Japan’s cultural capital to trace her heritage on her mother’s side. “It’s one of those cities where you need to be a part of the community to be in the know, to get access. It may come across as pretentious, but Kyoto is a city which has protected its culture for so many years.”
Curated Kyoto, Aiko’s company, started by offering travellers general tours of the city. “At the time, I was working for a media company which promoted Kyoto to the world – but a lot of the places we recommended were very touristy. Those places are beautiful, but I wanted to share the Kyoto that I loved – the amazing Kaiseki restaurant in Kyoto’s seaside village or the local soba spot run by an 86-year-old couple.” Drawing on her background as a creative director, Aiko soon specialised in tours of design spots, calls to interior shops, and private studio visits. “I’m interested in wellness, so I also love to show people private temple meditations or markets selling local produce,” she says. Her clientele grew from curious, artsy globetrotters to Hong Kong matcha brands (“I connected them to the tea farms here,” she says) and global fashion houses that want to get to know artisans in the city. “My clients vary, but a lot of them work in creative industries. They’re looking to get under the skin of the city through artistry, spirituality and really good food.”
Aiko’s recommendations – both below, and on her tours – hit that sweet spot between high-end hangouts and more down-to-earth, rustic addresses. “I look for places which have elements of luxury, but I want to make sure they have a story to tell,” she says. “Not everywhere is going to be photogenic. A tour might stop at a run-down soba restaurant in Gion – but the owner has been making the best tempura soba in the city for 50 years. One day might involve an invite-only restaurant, and the next might be about eating an egg sandwich at an old jazz cafe in western Kyoto. I want people to experience both the high and low culture of Kyoto.”
This is her guide to Kyoto
Nanzenji HaradaSara Aiko Coe / www.curatedkyoto.com
The chef’s table: Nanzenji Harada
Sakyō-ku
“This beautiful restaurant in a renovated machiya townhouse near the Nanzenji Temple has a single counter and welcomes one group a night for chef Harada’s hyperminimal food, which focuses on simple dashi broth made with kelp and freshly cut bonito flakes. He doesn’t use any condiments or preservatives – no salt, sugar or soy – so the emphasis is on the intense flavours of simple mushrooms in broth or a wonderful oyakodon rice bowl with chicken and egg. It still feels like a precious secret, even to locals.”
Go for: a super intimate evening with friends or family.
Vibe: beautifully pared-back.
Insider note: this spot has an air of mystery, and the menu is bound to surprise you – go with an open mind.
Moksa Rebirth Hotel有限会社ブリッツスタジオ 石井紀久
The hotel: Moksa
Sakyō-ku
“Central Kyoto has some great hotels, from the Ace and Roku to the new Shinmonzen, with its cool contemporary design by Tadao Ando, which sits among the antiques shops of Shinmonzen-dori. But for something different I’d stay at Moksa in the quieter north of the city, where it’s all about temples and nature. There’s a beautiful sauna and hot baths surrounded by the forest, quietly gorgeous art and really great natural food paired with Japanese tea. It’s an amazing place to switch off and feel revitalised.”
Go for: a peaceful place to bed down, complete with traditional baths.
Vibe: focussed around the forest.
Insider note: local tea culture is a big deal here – used to stimulate the circulation of “ki” energy. Teas are tailored to the seasons and served all day.
Zuiho-in TempleAlamy
Zen garden in Zuihō-in templeAlamy
The culture spot: Zuiho-In Temple
Kita-ku
“Kyoto has so many famous Zen temples but I prefer the quieter ones like Zuihō-in, part of the Daitokuji complex. It has a beautiful garden where I’ll often sit and read or write in my journal. I love watching people go in and out of the temple, and sometimes the monk will come out and talk to me. It’s my place to be still, without distractions. There’s a real sense of peace.”
Go for: a less frenetic temple experience.
Vibe: tuned into the city’s natural energy
Insider note: there are a large number of temples in the Daitokuji complex, and lots more zen gardens to explore.
Woven coffee shopMitsuyuki Nakajima
The coffee shop: Woven
Sakyō-ku
“Hidden away in the Okazaki neighbourhood, this tiny coffee shop is one of my favourites in the city and another place you won’t find in guidebooks. It’s run by Kan Chan, who used to work at Kyoto’s famous Italian restaurant Monk. He serves amazing Japanese sweet treats with the coffee. Behind the brick counter, he has a serious record collection – you’ll often hear jazz or low-key hip-hop playing as you walk in.”
Go for: an off-the-beaten-path discovery
Vibe: subtly cool
Insider note: Order the yokan with tea leaves.
KI restaurant
Ki restaurant
The restaurant: Ki
Neighbourhood: Shimogyō-ku
“People always think it’s strange that I recommend a Lebanese restaurant in Kyoto but I love this place and its very local take on Lebanese food, which is really fresh and interesting. There’s a long table under a big skylight and it feels like you’re eating with other people at a family dinner. There’s been such a buzz about Ki since it opened in early 2021 and there have been lines of locals queuing to get in.”
Go for: a more unusual experience of Kyoto’s food scene.
Vibe: relaxed – yet covetable.
Insider note: order one of the stuffed, fluffy pitas.
The boutique store: T.T
Neighbourhood: Higashiyama-ku
“This is the gallery-like store of the young fashion designer Taiga Takahashi, who tragically passed away recently, having only opened in this Gion machiya at the end of 2021 – a triumph in itself, as the Gion community tends to be very closed. But the brand has carried on, and the store is special – from the light-filled atelier downstairs, with a huge rock sculpture and views of a Zen garden outside, to the dark traditional sabi tea salon upstairs.”
Go for: a taste of the traditional and contemporary creative culture of Kyoto
Vibe: tradition meets modern
Insider note: guests can book a tea pairing experience inspired by the traditional Japanese tea ceremony.
