3. Le Cadoret
Dish to order: Île flottante, crème caramel
The holy grail: classic French food, not too fancy, brilliantly well prepared and super value. Le Cadoret, opened in 2017 by chef Léa Fleuriot and her brother Louis-Marie, is a neighbourhood bistro, with mirrors, terrazzo floors and a relaxed atmosphere, which has been cleverly refreshed by its young owners with a jolly blue awning, craft beers and an up-to-date wine list (Loire- and Jura-heavy, and there’s quince liqueur from Domaine Binner in Alsace). The food, at a glance, might seem unadventurous, but there is great skill in cooking a really wonderful blanquette de veau or steak frites with béarnaise. Starters such as potato, fermented cabbage and haddock or homemade boudin noir are produce-led and delicate, and retro puddings (île flottante, crème caramel) are subtle, not sticky. The corner site is a short walk from Belleville Métro, with Parc des Buttes-Chaumont close by to the north for a hilly walk after lunch.
Address: 1 Rue Pradier, 75019 Paris
Website: facebook.com/lecadoret
4. Double Dragon
Dish to order: Deep-fried Comté bao buns in XO sauce
From the patriarchal clan of the néo-bistro, a less masculine clutch of bars and restaurants has evolved around the 11th, including Septime, CheZaline and Le Servan, whose proprietors Tatiana and Katia Levha have now opened Double Dragon, a laidback joint that leans towards East Asia. Here, a friendly crew in white logo’d T-shirts serve a highly affordable menu of spicy comfort food, starting with deep-fried Comté bao buns in XO sauce, and a refreshing Lao-style tripe salad with holy basil. Sweet, spicy Korean fried chicken is an essential order, though some other mainstays, including mapo tofu, are a bit so-so; it’s the more esoteric dishes, such as a delicately foamy red spinach curry with egg yolk, that make Double Dragon more than just a pit stop for those craving a hit of chilli. Produce is largely organic, with distinctly French notes such as the Morteau sausage served with crispy rice, as well as the Philippe Pacalet 2015 Meursault on the drinks list next to Yunnan tea and sake. The decor is deliberately unstudied, and hip-hop resounds – not too bombastically – around the relaxed, family-friendly space.
Address: 52 Rue Saint Maur, 75011 Paris
Website: doubledragonparis.com
