The screen-favourite city
Where once bright young things absconded to bigger cities, those same locals are now driving a wave of indie restaurants, pop-ups and creative ventures. A relatively small city, Belfast is becoming increasingly cosmopolitan while retaining its soul. To get a sense of it, a Black Taxi Tour will give you the lay of the land, while climbing the mighty Cavehill in the country park just outside town will give you a different slant on the city. The Cathedral Quarter has been the scene for many a bar crawl – try The John Hewitt, named for the much-loved local poet, The Duke of York with its mural walls or the Sunflower – but there are other reasons to wander the streets. We like Rollerboy for elevated sausage rolls, while eclectic deli Sawers is known for its cheese counter and traybakes.
Outside the centre, Belfast’s suburbs have blossomed. In East, Boundary Brewery ferments its own craft beers on-site, while Freight serves brunch and themed dinner menus with a view of CS Lewis Square, which a local market and skaters call home. Along South Belfast’s Ormeau Road, there are bulbous bomboloni at Bread and Banjo bakery and vegan goodies at the 387 café. Fruit Shop café is a not-so-secret gem – seeded by local eco-artists intent on grassroots growing initiatives, its menu includes local lovelies such as fermented rhubarb tonics, Bara Bakehouse sourdough and aubergine galettes made with Cavehill wild garlic. The Dublin Road and Botanic areas traverse a global palate: The Chilli House, Cuban Sandwich Factory, Madame Pho and the recently refurbished Nora’s Palace with falafel the size of your head. Award-winning chef Marty Murphy’s latest venture, tapas restaurant Ora, has natural wines and plates such as pickled chilli crab and Manchego Caesar tacos.
With the local film and TV industry booming – there were whispers of Nicole Kidman ‘gramming her morning coffee outside the City Hall – Belfast draws in location-hunters seeking a Netflix or Hollywood fix. Catch the best independent films at the Queen’s Film Theatre, contemporary art at the Golden Thread Gallery, photography at Belfast Exposed, comedy and improv at Accidental Theatre and The Black Box, poetry readings at the No Alibis bookshop – and annual gatherings such as the electronic music and arts AVA Festival in September and the Belfast International Arts Festival in October. Above all, Belfast has kept its counter-culture spirit, rooted in punk and a thriving techno scene. Dress the part by browsing Young Savage vintage shop, and stop in at Voodoo Soup for vinyl, before heading to LGBTQ+ haven Kremlin. Belfast is a city moving to its own beat. By Anna Cafolla
Where to stay: Housed in sublimely restored Victorian merchants’ residence, The Harrison‘s 16 rooms have distinct personalities, all oozing character and fun from bathtubs in the bedrooms, thick velvet curtains, and dramatic antique furnishings. We also rate the Bullitt Hotel, a hip hotel upstart in the city centre that offers a no-nonsense, no-frills, yet still fun and stylish stay. For more, see our pick of the best hotels in Belfast.
